Undici Reviewed by NJ Monthly

Undici Taverna Rustica is proud to announce that it was recently visited by famous New Jersey foodie, Rosie Saferstein. Saferstein is a food writer for New Jersey Monthly magazine, njmonthly.com, and has her own popular column “Table Hopping With Rosie” which features New Jersey restaurant news, food event listings, as well as information about New Jersey chefs. Her well documented dining experience at Undici personifies the vision co-owner, Vic Rallo, area restaurateur and Internet/TV personality, had for his guests when establishing Undici.


UNDICI TAVERNA RUSTICA, RUMSON
May 04, 2011 05:00 AM ET | Rosie Saferstein | Permanent Link

We were transported to a rustic Tuscan farmhouse when we entered Undici (“eleven” in Italian) Taverna Rustica, 11 West River Road, Rumson. We were immediately put into a “let’s eat” mood by the massive rectangular bar filled with diners and drinkers; the large trays of tomatoes and fruits, cheeses, and meats hanging from the bar ceiling; and the fireplace that beckoned us to sit and relax. Wood-beam ceilings, wide-plank wood floors, and stone, brick, and plastered walls added to the ambiance.

Although bread and a bean dip were brought to the table when we were seated, we ordered a Neapolitan-style Margherita pizza to munch on while we looked at the menu and wine list. Baked in a wood-fired oven, the pie, with its perfectly charred, thin, and crispy crust, took the edge off our hunger. The all-Italian wine list is so large that we recommend you check it out online so you don’t spend the whole evening trying to decide what to order. Heads up: on Wednesday nights, a seasonal wine list is available with bottles offered at 50 percent off.

Salumi e formaggi, a platter of dried meats, cheeses, olives, grapes, and almonds, and the addictive fried calamari with a hint of sea salt were wonderful and can both be recommended as starters. Pastas were perfect. A very generous portion of the ravioli of the day, filled with greens and served with a tomato sauce, was impeccable. Another special, a Sicilian dish made with sardines, pine nuts, and raisins over pasta, had a robust flavor, and the house-made mafaldine (ruffled fettuccine) topped with a Bolognese sauce was beautifully cooked and presented. Roasted baby chicken with its crispy skin and juicy meat was devoured by the table. Other entrée options were Berkshire center-cut pork chop, cod with Swiss chard, 21-day dry-aged steak, and, on Sundays only, a “Sunday Sauce” with house-made beef bracciole, Italian sausage, and pork ribs slow cooked in a tomato sauce and served over rigatoni. Vegetarians can create a very impressive plate with the side dishes. Roasted Brussels sprouts and rosemary potatoes, which came with the chicken, were as full of flavor as the protein. After that extensive dinner, only one dessert was shared by four people, a sweet apple Tuscan coffee cake served with cinnamon gelato and fresh cream. For reservations, call 732-842-3880.

Read the review at NJMonthly.com

The James Suckling Interview:

Act 2

The Wines:

 

Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino 1993

Giacomo Conterno makes two Barolos which are both from the Cascina Francia vineyard, one of the greatest vineyard sites in Piemonte. The vineyards were purchased by Conterno in 1974 and measure six hectares (approximately 12 acres.) Conterno traditionally makes the Cascina Francia in every vintage with exception of 2002 and only makes the second Barolo, Monfortino Riserva in exceptional years.

 

In those years, a selection of the best fruit is made in the Cacina Francia vineyard and that fruit becomes Monfortino Riserva. Monfortino Riserva is perhaps the most iconic wine in all of Barolo. The Monfortino is made exclusively with natural yeasts and the maceration last 4-5 weeks and is carried out without temperature control. Current vintages are aged 7 years in large oak barrels prior to release. Monfortino is legendary for its longevity which is not measured in years but decades.

 

To me the 1993 Monfortino Riserva was much more traditional in color and style. I guess you would expect that from a traditionalist. The color in the glass was a light garnet ruby. The 1993 vintage was not an exceptional year for Barolo producers; most of the Barolos are austere and have a hard edge but that is not the case here.

 

This wine, like all Conterno wines, is bottled without filtration or fining thus revealing the total picture of the terrior and Nebbiolo’s varietal character. On the nose there are autumn leaves, leather and dried concentrated black cherries and a nice balance of acidity and oak tannins. This wine was simply elegant and delicious. I would definitely drink it now as I thought it was the best wine of the four Barolo’s we tasted. But do not get me wrong, this wine still has 10-20 more years of age ability. WOW my eyes are wide open to Giacomo Conterno Monfortino, great even in an off vintage.

 

Bruno Giacosa Collina Rionda Barolo Riserva 1990

Bruno Giacosa is known for making legendary wines especially the wines that bear the “Red Label,” trademark of his reserve wines. Giacosa only makes the Riserva wines in the very best vintages and when he does make them they are legendary. Yes, legendary.

 

Most would say, as would I, that Giacosa is a traditional Barolo producer. But by the mid-1980’s, Giacosa began to move toward an enlightened traditional style using small French oak barriques instead of large traditional botti. Fermentation and barrel aging however remain very much within the framework of traditional winemaking, resulting in a mind blowing combination.

 

The 1990 Giacosa Collina Rionda Barolo Riserva had a beautiful yet light characteristically Barolo color, garnet colored turning to orange brick colored on the edges. For me this wine had an aroma of over-ripe fruit, almost like prunes and it was very pronounced. On the palette the wine had good balance between acidity, (still high) tannins and fruit. This wine was rich, dense, aromatic and fantastico. James chose this as his favorite wine and I notched it in as second place. I would drink this wine now or within the next 10 years. Cheers as always to Bruno Giacosa.

 

Angelo Gaja Costa Russi 1990
Angelo Gaja declassified his wines, so they are not technically Barolos. By doing so, he could add other varietals usually 2-4% to the Nebbiolo to enhance its quality and characteristics of his wines. Even though they are not technically Barolos they are almost always listed and tasted with the great Barolos of Piemonte.

 

The Costa Russi is the most new world of all the wines we tasted often resembling a French Chateauneuf du Pape or a big California Zinfandel.

 

The 1990 Costa Russi has all the tell-tale Nebbiolo characteristics. It’s very rich and has jammy black cherries, with rich oak tannins in the nose. Angelo Gaja was the first Piemontese producer to use French barriques instead of the large Botti that were traditionally used. This wine tasted slightly out of balance to me, and it seemed the oak treatment over shadowed the luscious fruit and crisp acidity that Nebbiolo usually offers. This wine was clearly a baby at 21 years of age. I would let this sit several more years, 8-10 before re-tasting. I rated this wine number 4 out of the Barolos we tasted. But remember as Verdoni says, this is a high end beauty contest and all of the wines are stunning; we are discussing the minutia amongst great producers and at the end, it’s personal taste. Some like ‘em blonde and some always fall for the brunette.

 

Roberto Voerizio Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate DOCG 2001

Roberto Voerizio produces some of the richest, deepest and most texturally beautiful Barolo in Piemonte. Voerizio is best known for his low yields. Twenty years ago the idea of green harvesting was still radical in Piemonte, a poor, agrarian region were cutting off bunches of grapes was seen as the equivalent of throwing away money. Voerizio was convinced otherwise and followed his instincts by pursuing this radical approach to low yields. Voerizio cuts bunches off his plants, to the point the rows between his vineyards are literally strewn with fruit. The bunches that remain are meticulously trimmed, particularly to the bottom and the sides of the bunch, where the harsher tannins are believed to lie. The typical triangular Nebbiolo bunch is trimmed into a small roundish bunch with yields that are the lowest in Piemonte and most of the world.

 

Voerizio also stepped away from tradition by using small oak barriques instead of the large botti which are so typical and very traditional of Barolo producers.

 

With all this said Roberto Voerizio’s Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate DOCG 2001, was the deepest in color of all the Barolos tasted, as expected; it is a testament to the low yields and tremendous concentration Voerizio achieves. The traditional brickish red color has been transposed by Voerizio into a glimmering dark almost ink colored wine; this is very unique coming from Nebbiolo grapes.

 

The nose had notes of aged balsamic and black cherry with exceptional fruit and vibrant fresh flavors. On the palate there was still a very tannic acidic quality (in a good way) that showed this wine’s youth. I think this wine is difficult to fully appreciate today, but it is beautifully made and has tons of aging potential. Cellar this wine for at least 10 more years. Just a note: when we drank this wine with food it really balanced out, if I was to drink this wine today it would be with a Hearty Roast, Osso Bucco or pasta with meat sauce and a sharp grated cheese. This wine I rated #3 for today and #1 for continued aging.

 

Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 1985

Everyone has a hallmark by which they measure things; I measure baseball by Babe Ruth, I measure women by Bo Derek in the movie 10, cars (that’s easy) a 1952 Ferrari Barchetta 512 and for Italian wine it can only be Sassicaia 1985.

 

I have had the pleasure of staying on the Tenuta San Guido Estate several times and each time I visit I get a clearer picture of how they created one of the greatest red wines ever made. Tenuta San Guido is located in Bolgheri on the Tuscan coast about 5 miles from the ocean. The maritime weather and the excellent terrior allow them to grow some of the best Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in the world. Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia has won the coveted Tre Bicchieri Award 10 years in a row and I guess that tells you something about consistency.

 

This is the first wine that James Suckling rated 100 points while at the Wine Spectator and Antonio Galloni of the Wine Advocate followed by also rating Sassicaia 1985 100 points. So wouldn’t it be great to open this bottle and taste it 26 years later? Life is too short so we opened it up. But would it live up to our expectations????

 

James was afraid to taste it at first because of the wonderful memories he had of this wine tasting it from its inception and then on several occasions following its release. He did not want to be disappointed, but we all settled in and began to taste this incredible wine and believe me none of us were disappointed.

 

The wine had a majestic deep rich color, and fresh aromatics; I even smelled the sea. The wine had vibrant flavors on the palette; I tasted ripe plums, black fruits and casis with a balanced light oakiness and silky smooth tannins. This wine is truly elegant and deserving of 100 points. If you own this wine sip it slow I believe it has another 20 years to go.

 

James did make a confession: that he was sorry that he gave the wine 100 points upon release for it was better now and he could only rate it 100 plus!!!!

 

 

Enclosed are some pictures from the event, and as Warner Wolf says, “let’s go to the video tape,” you will have to wait and see the video for a full review of the interview and the tasting.

 

La Forza del Vino,

Vic

Rumson Italian Restaurant Offers Authentic Experience

When patrons from the Rumson – Red Bank area want to escape to the rustic ambiance of Italy, their travels don’t take them very far.  As famous as it is for Italian cuisine, the rich flavor of Undici’s rustic surroundings is equally as impressive to diners and critics alike.

rumson italian restaurantHailed as the home of the best pizza in NJ, the wood burning oven at Undici is just one component of the magnificent ambiance created by owner Victor Rallo.   The NY Times describes the restaurant as a two story ‘Tuscan Farmhouse’ and adds, “In surroundings like these, you could feel pretty grand eating tuna sandwiches on a picnic table.”

Undici’s ‘farmhouse’ can serve approximately 200 people from their menu of elegantly crafted and fine tuned authentic Italian cuisine. In addition to fare, their uncompromising menu of wine offers only the finest, hand selected Italian wines chosen exclusively for guests of Undici by Rallo himself.

Rumson Wine Bar

Undici’s Wine Spectator, Best of Award of Excellence, recognizes their 600+ labels representing every growing region in Italy, along with their vertical and producer depth in Super Tuscans, Barolo, Nebbiolo, Aglianico, Chianti Classico to name a few.

A colorful and flavorful array of Italian dishes; Antipasto, Primo, Secondo and more, treat patrons to the freshest cuts of meat, spices and locally grown produce.   From appetizers to entrees, consumers can satisfy all of the senses with Genoa salami, soppressata, bresaola and mortadella; pizzas, pastas, seafood entrees and more.  Specialty cuisine including quail, also make guest appearances on the menu.

With critics raving and Wine Spectator awarding, the perfect choice for an authentic Italian meal in the Red Bank – Rumson area can only be found at Undici.